Wednesday, August 6, 2025

Collavini's Broy: Evolution Of An Iconic Friuli White Wine

Friuli Venezia Giulia is a compact yet captivating wine region nestled along Italy’s northeastern border with Slovenia. The complexity of its wines stems from a unique interplay of Alpine and Mediterranean influences—cold winds from the Alps lend high acidity, while coastal breezes bring salinity and body.

By Dave Nershi, CSW

The Social Soul of Friuli Wine Culture


Wine is woven into Friulian life, and few bottles speak its language more eloquently than Broy DOC Collio from the historic Collavini Winery, founded in 1896 in Rivignano. First crafted in 2003, Broy is a white blend of 50% Friulano, 30% Chardonnay, and 20% Sauvignon Blanc—an elegant trifecta that reflects the region’s terroir and winemaking philosophy.


Tracing the Broy Timeline


At a recent online tasting, I had the privilege of sampling six vintages of Broy, each illustrating a distinct era in its evolution. According to Luigi Collavini, great-grandson of founder Eugenio, the wine has seen three stylistic phases:


- 2003–2008: A bold, powerful white wine

- 2008–2018: A focus on purity—“less winery and more vineyard”

- 2018 onward: Introduction of barrel aging and a new label


Let’s take a stroll through each vintage.



2022 Vintage


The growing season was highlighted by drought and an early harvest. The lack of rain caused some trees to die. Hot winds signaled the reality of climate change. Irrigation in Friuli is only used in emergencies and only in the valleys. Luigi likened irrigation in the vineyard to doping in sports.


In the glass, the wine is a straw yellow color with golden highlights. On the palate, notes of tree fruit and pineapple are present. The wine gets nine months of oak aging, but it is done with finesse. The wine is elegant and balanced with an engaging minerality.


2021 Vintage


This year had a more typical season, with a cool spring and some frost. This edition of Broy offers more acidity while maintaining good balance. The vineyard soil was once a seabed, and that adds beautiful minerality. Salinity, a trademark of Broy, is also evident.


The wine is complex, and the fascinating aroma weaves together wildflowers, spice, and peach. It is creamy and round, lifted by bright acidity. The palate offers apricot, honeyed peach, and flint. This wine, a favorite with critics, delivers elegance with a flourish.


Luigi Collavini - Photo courtesy of Collavini

2018 Vintage


“Revolutions are very welcome,” Luigi says, referring to this vintage, which introduced barrel aging to the Broy line. Growing conditions were perfect, and the crop was more abundant than in previous years. 


The color is a rich golden yellow. The aroma is a layered bouquet of ripe peach, mango, and a touch of banana. The barrel aging is done in a restrained Burgundian style, present but not obtrusive. The palate opens with juicy peach and tropical fruit, followed by some salty mineral notes and vibrant acidity, leading into a lingering finish.


2017 Vintage


The harvest season was warmer than average, with the overall crop reduced by 20%. The last vintage before the introduction of the barrel-aging regimen, this wine tasted very different than the newer vintages. Stainless steel finishing resulted in a focus on freshness and minerality.


The wine, eight years on from harvest, is deep gold in the glass. It tasted more austere and focused, contrasting with the opulence of the 2022 and 2021. The tropical notes were more muted with a mineral-driven leaness. This was a wine that looked suspect when I received the shipment due to a moldy-looking cork. However, the wine inside was fine, and this turned out to be one of my favorites.


Collavini vineyards and winery - Photo courtesy of Collavini

2013 Vintage


My 2013 vintage bottle was faulted, not surprising when you are tasting a white wine that’s 12 years old, shipped halfway around the world. (Collavini was kind enough to send another bottle, but it didn’t survive the shipping process.)


Fellow participants enjoyed the candied fruit and savory flavors of the wine, which still maintains its structure and minerality. 


2011 Vintage


The 2011 vintage began with temperatures above average. The summer was characterized by cool and humid weather, interrupted by a brief period of intense heat. The harvest season was warm and dry.


A deep golden color captures your attention before the first sip. The aroma is of tropical fruit and flint, hinting at aged elegance. The palate has deep savory notes, including tart apple, dried herbs, and sweet spice. This is a wine to sip and contemplate while enjoying the surprising freshness of a 14-year-old wine.


My first tasting experience with Collavini’s Broy made an indelible impression. The wine is rich, aromatic, and complex. Decades may come and go, but the elegant Broy DOC Collio remains a benchmark in Friuli wine. 


Friday, July 25, 2025

Exploring The Heart Of Texas Hill Country Wine


Texas is the home of longhorn steers and 10-gallon hats, but it’s also home to a flourishing wine scene that’s gaining national and international recognition.



By Dave Nershi, CSW


Texas Hill Country, in central Texas, nestled between Austin and San Antonio, boasts more than 100 wineries scattered across limestone hills and pastoral landscapes. The region offers wines that are as bold and inviting as the people who craft them. From Italian varietals nurtured in the High Plains to creative blends made with innovative hybrid grapes, Hill Country winemakers are proving that Texas wine is no longer a curiosity—it’s a destination.


On a recent trip, using Austin as our home base, we visited three standout wineries that showcase the region's diversity and charm. Each is located in the Texas Hill Country AVA, the third-largest in the country. The AVA encompasses nine million acres.





Carter Creek Winery Resort and Spa – Where Innovation Meets Elegance


Our first stop was Carter Creek Winery, where winemaker Jon McPherson leads the charge not only here, but also at South Coast Winery in Temecula, California. (Fun fact: Jon will be a panelist at the upcoming International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association conference.)


Tasting room manager Katie welcomed us with a refreshing Texas High Plains Brut and a sparkling Tempranillo rosé. The Brut has a touch of fruitiness and is 85% Chenin Blanc with smaller amounts of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay. 


Among the whites, the smooth 2023 Roussanne is a classic Texas favorite, but it was the 2023 Chenin Blanc—with lively citrus and green fruit notes—that stole the show for me.


A fascinating side-by-side tasting of Sangiovese blends (one from Temecula, one from Carter Creek) showcased how terroir influences style. Carter Creek’s flagship red, Maverick, impressed with crushed cherry and plum. Like many of the wines in the region, the grapes are grown in the Texas High Plains AVA. Mourvedre and Carignan share the spotlight at 27% each, with Syrah, Cinsaut, and Counoise making this blend dance with red and black fruit and leather and smoke accents.


As we wrapped up, GM Derek Stutz dropped in—and after a brief chat, gave Katie the nod to pour a limited gem: the 2023 Estate Red. Made from two disease-resistant hybrids, Errante Noir and Paseante Noir, the wine evoked bold, deep flavors reminiscent of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel. Carter Creek was among the first to plant these vines, and the result was remarkable.




Driftwood Estate Winery – Hilltop Hospitality with a View


Driftwood Estate Winery proved to be warm and welcoming. Family-run and veteran-owned since its founding in 1998, the winery sits on a bluff with sweeping views of its 18-acre estate vineyard.


I first discovered Driftwood back in 2011 while ordering wine for a board dinner in Austin. The Moonshine Grill restaurant had a nice assortment from the Lone Star State. That bottle of Longhorn Red changed my perspective on Texas wine, and tasting the 2019 vintage on this trip was a full-circle moment. This Syrah and Cabernet Franc blend remains smooth and easy to love.


Other standouts included the Cuvee Blanc—a refreshing blend of Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and Viognier—and the bold 2019 Newsom Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon with notes of cherry, vanilla, and baking spice. Newsome Vineyards is a standout grower in the Texas High Plains. Nineteen grape varieties are grown, and the vineyard supplies grapes to more than 10 top Texas wineries.


While Longhorn holds sentimental value, we couldn’t leave without the 2019 Sangiovese, a full-bodied delight brimming with dark cherry, plum, and herbal accents, finishing silky smooth.


Driftwood is ideal for lounging under shade trees, wine glass in hand, charcuterie on the side, and the quiet magic of Hill Country all around.



Duchman Family Winery – A Tuscan Escape in the Lone Star State


No trip to Hill Country is complete without a visit to Duchman Family Winery, one of Texas’s top wine destinations and certainly one of the prettiest. With its Tuscan-style tasting room and picturesque grounds, it’s a place that feels like a European escape—yet every wine is 100% Texan.


GM Tommy Wellford curated a superb tasting for us featuring grapes sourced from the Texas High Plains AVA, ideal for Italian varietals thanks to its elevation and climate. Their top-seller, Vermentino, delivered crisp lemon and lime—perfect on a sizzling hot Texas day.


We tasted layered expressions of Rhone grapes, including a 2023 Viognier and stainless steel-aged Roussanne. Texas is on the way to becoming one of the largest producers of Roussanne outside France. Roussanne can be complex and is also heat-tolerant, which is important in this sun-drenched state.


Their 2023 rosé, a blend of Dolcetto and Montepulciano, is summer in a glass. The light-bodied Sangiovese felt tailor-made for the season, while the 2019 Montepulciano, with blackberry, plum, and a hint of pepper, made it clear why it’s a multi-award winner.


My personal favorite? The bold and beautifully structured 2018 Aglianico, offering dark cherry, cooked fruit, and dried herbs—a wine that lingers long after the last sip.


Final Thoughts


We started our Texas getaway with blues at Antone’s in Austin with Eddie 9 Volt, and we continued rocking in Texas Hill Country – a thriving wine region with passionate winemakers, bold varietals, and unforgettable hospitality. From hybrid reds at Carter Creek to hilltop views at Driftwood and Italian elegance at Duchman, this journey captured the unbridled spirit driving the Texas climb to wine excellence.




Wednesday, July 23, 2025

The World’s Oldest Wine and a Georgian Supra


We host a celebration of Georgian food and wine with an Old World style.

In 2015, archeologists digging in a Neolithic site near the Republic of Georgia capital of Tbilisi, made a remarkable discovery. They unearthed ancient clay vessels called qvevri containing residue of grape seeds and juice that were radiocarbon dated to 6000 BC. It’s considered the oldest evidence of winemaking, earning Georgia the sobriquet of the birthplace of wine.


Eight thousand years later, the egg-shaped qvevri is still used to make wine, making 8,000 years of unbroken tradition. That’s worth celebrating, and we did during a recent supra, a traditional Georgian-style feast that blends food, wine, poetry, and philosophy into an unforgettable experience.


The supra was a collaboration with good friend Arthur Barham of Merlot2Muscadine. We previously partnered on an epic Judgment of Paris anniversary dinner. With input from Tom “Tommo” Williams of Eat This! wine tours in Georgia, with whom I worked on a webinar for the International Food, Wine & Travel Writers Association, we set about meticulously planning our supra.


Our dinner party of 12 included good friends well-known for high-level culinary chops. Each couple was assigned a traditional Georgian dish, which Arthur and I paired with a Georgian wine. We incorporated Tommo’s input from half a world away. 


The toastmaster and culinary guide for the supra is the tamada. He is the mood maker that keeps the energy flowing and sets the tone with heartfelt toasts. The tamada weaves in stories, humor, and even poetry. Arthur and I shared the role, using a stole around the neck to indicate who was the tamada.


Arriving guests were greeted with a special treat, an Arthurian Pomegranate Mimosa. The sparkler featured a frozen cylinder of pomegranate juice that released its chilled goodness as you sipped. Just perfect, as we learned about the history of Georgia, its wine, and its culinary roots. Pomegranates symbolize fertility, good fortune, and prosperity in Georgian culture.


The group enthusiastically learned the toast of Sakartvelos Gaumajros (Victory to Georgia!). I can still hear the shouts of Gaumajos (cheers) echoing in the house.



First Course

Kachapuri & 2021 Marani Gemieri White Blend, Kakheti

Diane and John Bomba


Kachapuri is Georgia’s beloved national dish. It’s a boat-shaped bread filled with cheese (Diane created a special blend) and topped with an egg. She finished toasting the bread to a golden brown and then sliced the bread, breaking the yolk, resulting in a gooey, comforting, heavenly bite. This was paired with the Marani Gemieri, a blend of Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane, and Tsolikauri. This wine had a slight pop of fruitiness for a spot-on pairing. 


The first rule of supra is that no one drinks until the tamada toasts. Here is the toast for this course:


Let us lift our glasses to the One who gave us the vine and the grain, the wisdom to ferment joy, and the hands to shape khachapuri. May this wine from Kakheti reflect the light of His grace, and may this bread remind us that every meal is a blessing. To the Creator of flavor, fellowship, and feast—may His presence dwell among us as richly as this table. Amen and Gaumarjos 



Second Course

Pkhali & K’Deda Qvevri Dry Amber Wine, Tsinandali NV 

Diane and Gary Wessel


Pkhali is a vibrant and flavorful Georgian appetizer made from finely chopped vegetables blended with ground walnuts, garlic, herbs, and vinegar. Diane crafted this dish into a feast for the eyes. The rounded pkhali were sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. Qvevri wine can be tannic and oxidized. For almost all guests, this was the first taste of such a wine. The wine ferments on the seeds and skins, and in this case, yields a nice caramelized aroma. This wine is 100% Rkatsiteli. 


Toast: Let us raise our glasses to peace—not just the silence after storms, but the quiet strength that grows like herbs in the garden of our hearts. As we taste Phkali, may we remember that even the humblest leaf can nourish the soul. And as this amber wine from Tsinandali touches our lips, may it remind us that time and patience turn the ordinary into the extraordinary. To peace in our homes, in our country, and in our spirits. Gaumarjos!



Third Course

Kharcho & 2023 Kakhuri Gvinis Marani Saperavi Argo

Kathy and Dave Nershi 


This is a hearty Georgian soup that blends beef, special spices, rice, and a tangy plum or tomato base into a rich, comforting dish. Kathy used a tomato base, then added pureed plum as an accent. The deep, rich soup was a perfect partner for the Saparavi Argo. More than a year ago, I gifted this bottle to Arthur. I was captivated by the ceramic jug, which features two scenes from the Greek myth of Jason and the Argonauts. Jason’s quest for the Golden Fleece takes him to the eastern coast of the Black Sea, which is modern-day Georgia. This Saparavi is full-bodied with deep blackberry notes and earthy tones.



Fourth Course

Satsivi & 2022 Teliani Valley Tsolikouri

Natalie and Kyle Hampton


This classic Georgian dish features poultry and is served cold in a rich walnut sauce. Natalie chose chicken for this version. The green apple and tropical fruit of the Tsolikouri were a great counterpoint to the richness of the sauce. This was my first taste of 100% Tsolikouri, and I enjoyed the minerality.


Toast: Let’s drink to new life, joy, and the future of our children.



Fifth Course

Mtsvadi & 2022 Shumi Iberiuli Mukuzani & 2019 Marani Mukuzani

Arthur and Mary Barham


Mstvadi is Georgia’s answer to the ultimate grilled meat experience—a rustic, flavorful shish kebab that’s deeply woven into the country’s culinary soul. Arthur took this to an artistic level, presenting marinated pork tenderloin flavored with pomegranate molasses and garlic. It was served with pickled red onion in small cast-iron skillets. Mukuzani was first produced in 1888 and is one of Georgia’s most celebrated wines, considered the Grand Cru of Georgian reds. It is aged in oak barrels for at least three years. To quench our guests' insatiable thirst for premium red wine, I also uncorked the Marani 2019 Mukuzani, allowing us to contrast vintages. Both were exquisite.


Toast: To the women at our table and in our hearts—like Mukuzani, they are bold, refined, and unforgettable. As we raise our glasses before the fire-kissed mtsvadi, let us honor the warmth they bring, the wisdom they share, and the beauty they embody. May their laughter echo like the clink of crystal, and may their strength be as enduring as the vine. Gaumarjos!



Sixth Course

Medovik & 2023 Marani Tvishi 

Michelle and Bryant Harrison


Medovik is a classic Russian honey cake popular in Georgia. It's known for its delicate layers and rich, creamy filling. Michelle outdid herself with this decadent cake that was at least 10 layers, with a creamy filling and delicate texture. The magnificent cake was paired with Tvishi, a medium-sweet wine from Tsolikauri grapes. It’s known as Georgia’s “golden whisper of sweetness.” There are blossoms and tree fruit on the nose with pear and honeyed sweetness on the palate. It is elegant and delicate, with a long finish.


Toast: A guest is a gift from God—may our guests feel honored and welcome. Gaumarjos!


With the group properly sated with multiple toasts, good wine, and mouth-watering food, we were treated to impromptu poetry readings by Natalie and Bryant. They hadn’t known they would be reciting poems, but I like to keep guests on their toes! Bryant read Rivers of Memory, and Natalie treated us to Fields of Gold.


   



As a special bonus, Natalie had brought some homemade Georgian red wine from a church friend. It tasted delightful and well-made. She also brought a glass-stoppered flask that contained some clear spirit, chacha perhaps. Chacha is a clear, high-proof liquor distilled from grape pomace. This tamada wasn’t ready for such a high-test libation, so I continued to sip my Saparavi.



With lightning flashing and thunder booming, it was time for the final toast:


Let us raise our glasses one final time, not in farewell, but in honor of the moments we’ve shared. May the laughter echo beyond these walls, may the wine we’ve drunk nourish our spirits, and may the memories we’ve made tonight live long in our hearts. To friendship, to love, to peace – and to the road that brings us together again. Gaumarjos!





Sunday, June 22, 2025

The Princely Wines of Liechtenstein Offer Elegance and Freshness

The Hofkellerei, or princely winery, of the Prince of Liechtenstein produces distinctive Alpine wines of the highest quality. Here’s what they taste like.


Schloss Vaduz

By Dave Nershi, CSW

Princely Wines From The Smallest Wine-Producing Country


Liechtenstein is a landlocked country of approximately 62 square miles and 40,000 citizens. It boasts one of the lowest crime rates in the world and zero national debt. It’s a principality and its current ruler is Prince Hans-Albert II. It’s also the world’s smallest wine-producing country.


Of special interest to us are the wineries of the prince. Princely Wines are produced from two vineyards, one in Austria and one in Liechtenstein. The family name stems from the Liechtenstein Castle located just south of Vienna,  Austria. The noble line dates back to the 12th century.


The lineage is steeped in history. To gain a seat in the Holy Roman Empire’s assembly, they had to own land under the emperor’s authority. They purchased the Lordships of Schellenberg and Vaduz in the early 18th century, which became part of the principality. 


Mountains And Microclimate Equal An Esteemed Vineyard


In Vaduz, the Herawingert vineyard and the winery became property of the princely house. Today, it is the most esteemed and important vineyard in Liechtenstein. It is considered the center of winegrowing in the country and is one of the best sites in the Rhine River Valley.


Harvest at Herawingert

The southwesterly exposure, mild climate, and soils rich in limestone and slate are ideal for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The unique microclimate is created by the surrounding 6,500-foot mountains and the Föhn winds: warm, dry downward-sloping winds that occur on the leeward side of the Alps. Vines are more than 40 years old and are cultivated by hand.


Today, the estate features restaurant Torkel, a Michelin-starred establishment situated in a medieval building that was once used for the vinification of princely grapes.


Harvest work at Hofkellerei Liechtenstein Wilfersdorf

The princely winery in Wilfersdorf, Austria, has been in the princely family since the 15th century. The family’s ancestral seat, Palace Wilferdorf, and the Karlsberg and Johannesbergen vineyards are located in northeastern Niederösterreich. White cuvees, Rieslings, Grüner Veltliner, and concentrated reds age slowly in centuries-old vaulted aging cellars on the estate.

The area has a Pannonian climate, a type of Continental climate that features hot summers, cold winters, moderate rainfall, and low humidity. The climate, along with loess soils with dissolved limestone, allows the production of distinctive cool-climate wines. 

Winery Managing Director Stefan Tscheppe


Since 2018, Stefan Tscheppe has been directing the wineries in Liechtenstein and Austria, as well as the Torkel. He has a strong reputation for the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from Vaduz as well as the Rieslings, Grüner Veltliner, and white blends grown in Austria. 


Growing up at the 90-acre winery of his family in Southern Styria, Austria, he started with high-end Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay at an early age, before moving to California in 2005 and running Perry Creek winery in the Sierra Foothills. He returned to Austria in  2012 and took over as director of the Esterhazy wineries in Burgenland and Hungary.



Sipping Princely Wines


We had the opportunity to taste three princely wines:


Reid Karlsberg 2021 Cuvée – A complex blend of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner, it ripples with citrus fruit and floral notes. Its Alpine nature is evident in the flinty minerality and stone fruit. The wine uses wild fermentation, and a portion is aged on the lees. The grapes are from old vines grown in sparse and silty soil high in limestone content. For me, this was an eye-opening experience. I didn’t know Riesling and Grüner were capable of such a multi-dimensional expression of the terroir.


Herrnbaumgarten 2022 Cuvée – A blend of half Riesling and Grüner, this is a lucious wine with the aroma of tropical fruit. On the palate, it’s juicy with white peach and honeysuckle. This is a lighter expression of the blend, wrapped in a salty minerality. On a hot humid day, this is a welcome reprieve.



Ried Herawingert 2020 Pinot Noir – Herawingert has been one of the most important vineyards in the Rhine River Valley for 1,000 years. The vines grow at the foot of a mountain range, on a mix of slate and limestone soil. True to its Alpine heritage, the wine offers austere notes of smoky black cherry and a precise and stony palate. There are deep notes of dried fruit, cocoa, and subtle strawberry. The old vines give this Pinot a character to savor. 


These wines are indeed fit for a prince, but you are invited to enjoy them as well. If they are not stocked at your fine wine store, try Archetyp in Portland, which specializes in Alpine wines and spirits.


Vineyard and castle photos courtesy of Princely Wines of Liechtenstein.



Monday, May 12, 2025

Exploring The Delights Of Panama City, Panama

Panama City at sunset

Article and Photos By Dave Nershi, CSW


Panama City is the gateway between the eastern and western hemispheres. It is a modern city bristling with skyscrapers. There are plentiful attractions, including, of course, the engineering wonder of the Panama Canal.  Here are four highlights from our recent visit.



Rooftop Dining In Panama City


Panama City is also a UNESCO Creative City in Gastronomy. One of the best ways to enjoy the tropical delights of Panama City is from one of the many rooftop bars and restaurants in Casco Viejo, Old Town.


Lazotea is a trendy restaurant focused on Latin American cuisine and drinks with an amazing view of the Panama City skyline. The person behind the restaurant is Jorge Rausch, a Colombian chef of Polish and Austrian descent. His Bogotá restaurant Criterión has been named Colombia's best restaurant three times. We arrived early to take in the sunset and the scene as day transformed into night. 


We savored a glass of bubbly as the sun sank, painting the pink sky. As we delved into our entrees, the glittering lights of Panama City began to shine. I enjoyed L'Ancienne Grouper, a grouper fillet cooked in hazelnut butter, bacon, paipin, caramelized shallots, Beurre Blanc sauce, and chicken jus. This was paired with Albarino, while my wife enjoyed a prawn dish with a delicious sauce.



Guided Jungle Adventure with Gatun Lake Cruise


We explored the Panamanian jungle on a guided tour that started at the Gamboa Rainforest Preserve and embarked on a boat trip across Gatun Lake. Gatun Lake is a crucial part of the Panama Canal. It’s a massive artificial lake that helps ships cross the 21-mile distance of the Isthmus of Panama. The lake provides the water needed to operate the canal's locks and also serves as a drinking water source for Panama City. We enjoyed seeing the massive cargo ships headed for the locks. They dwarfed our small motorboat.


During our lake voyage, we could visit the famous Monkey Islands, where we could view several different types of monkeys: White-Faced Capuchin Monkeys, Howler Monkeys, and Geoffroy’s Tamarin Monkeys. The curious Capuchin monkeys approached our boats, and some sat on the railing, allowing us to observe them at a close distance.


We then hiked through the lush Soberania National Park. Walking along the Pipeline Road, which follows an old fuel pipeline built during World War II, we were surrounded by natural beauty and were able to spot a sloth and a Crimson-crested woodpecker.



Sunny San Blas Islands


The San Blas Islands are some of the world's most remote and pristine islands. More than 350 islands are in the archipelago off Panama's Caribbean coast. Only 49 islands are inhabited, and many are barely big enough for more than one palm tree. We wondered why we needed to bring our passports for this excursion, then we learned that we would be entering the Guna Yala comarca, an autonomous territory governed by the Guna people, who have kept their culture and rich traditions alive.


The islands feature white sand beaches untouched by commercialism. It’s a remote and peaceful place. We saw at least eight shades of blue gazing across the tropical waters as the wind rustled the palm tree leaves.



Natural Beauty of Anton Valley


El Valle de Antón is nestled in the bowl of an extinct volcano and is rich in the untouched splendor of nature. At nearly 2,000 feet in elevation, the area is cooler than the lower parts of Panama. It is home to more than 500 species of birds. The area is one of the last habitats of the critically endangered Panamanian golden frog.


We stopped at the Sunday Market (it’s open seven days a week) on Avenida Central before heading to El Chorro Macho. El Chorro Macho is a 115-foot waterfall surrounded by dense rainforest. There are hiking trails that offer spectacular views. After we worked up a sweat (not hard in a Panamanian rainforest!) I took a plunge into a natural pool fed by the waterfall.


Following our hike, we visited the Butterfly Haven, a sanctuary that features 21 different species. Anton Valley boasts more than 450. The butterflies were different than those we have seen in butterfly houses in the States. One of the fascinating species is the Owl Eye Butterfly, found in Central and South America, especially in rainforests. The markings on its wings mimic large animal eyes to frighten away predators. We were also blessed with an abundance of Blue Morpho butterflies, a species not found in North America.


The Butterfly Haven has a video and displays to explain the lifecycle of the butterfly. The highlight is the flight room, with host and nectar plants and butterflies soaring.